Paris closed the spring/summer 2027 womenswear season with a slightly lighter calendar than a year ago: 68 shows and 34 presentations between 28 September and 6 October 2026, against 74 shows and 37 presentations for spring 2026, according to Vogue.
There were two designer debuts. Drew Henry presented his first collection as artistic director of Courrèges, and Kai Nesselrath made his debut as design director of Carven. For several of the biggest houses it was a third season under new leadership: Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, as well as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe.
Dior showed in the Tuileries with featherlight tailoring and sheer layers. Chanel took over the Grand Palais with a set of birds in flight under a glowing moon, opening with Nicole Kidman reading from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. Valentino’s Alessandro Michele asked every guest to bring a book to the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, and Celine’s Michael Rider showed 71 looks.
Louis Vuitton closed the week on 6 October outside the Louvre with a collection by Nicolas Ghesquière built around ergonomics and the natural movement of the body — ultra-light fabrics, fluid tailoring and second-skin pieces.
Commercial collaborations were also on the calendar: Zara’s first collection with John Galliano was presented on 1 October, and H&M’s collaboration with Elie Saab goes on sale on 22 October.
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Photo: The nave of the Grand Palais, Paris, where Chanel showed its spring/summer 2027 collection. Ibex73, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
